The Christmas Tree Illuminates Once Again After the Outbreak of the Gaza War
For two years amid the conflict in Gaza, all public celebrations marking the holiday season were called off in Bethlehem in the occupied West Bank. This place is where Christians believe Jesus was born.
But, following a recent truce, the holy city decided that this year celebrations would make a comeback, as represented by the illumination of its customary, giant Christmas tree in front of the ancient Church of the Nativity.
"We have endured two difficult years of silence; no Christmas, no jobs, no income," remarks the city's mayor Maher Canawati. "We're all living here on tourism and the tourist trade had fallen to nothing."
He accepts that the idea to restart festivities faced some debate, as suffering continues in Gaza – which affects members of the tiny Christian community, who often have relatives in Bethlehem.
"Some may say it is unsuitable while others contend it's appropriate," Mr Canawati explains. "But deep inside my heart, I believed that this was the correct action to take since the Christmas season should never be stopped or cancelled. This represents the light of hope for us."
A Glimmer of Festivity Returns
Locals – both Christians and Muslims – take photographs in front of the tree decorated with red and gold baubles at Manger Square. They are joined by a handful of foreign tourists.
Vibrant lights now adorn the streets with signs advertising Christmas bazaars and festive events for children.
"We're very happy to see the tree, first of all, and to welcome visitors to Bethlehem and to be able to observe the holiday in its authentic spirit," says Bethlehem designer Nadya Hazboun.
"This is where it all started, so this is where we can convey a message globally of what Christmas truly should be about. And now, if Christmas is peaceful, then I hope it will bring a nice message for the whole world."
Economic Prospects and Challenges
The neighbouring towns of Beit Jala and Beit Sahour also intend to light holiday trees soon. Local hotels – which have remained largely empty for two years – are seeing a rise of bookings from Palestinian citizens of Israel along with certain international tourists.
One tourist from Russia, Angelica, is on her second pilgrimage to this region. "In my view everyone needs to come at minimum one time during their lifetime," she says.
"I wish a lot of people will soon come back because it's sad without many tourists. The only thing that is positive is that you don't have lengthy queues – one can visit and experience more. When I came before you had to wait in line for a few hours at least."
For now, the gift shops scattered throughout the city experience scant trade, and near the cream-coloured walls of the Nativity Church, which originate from the 4th century, tour guides largely stand idle. Prior to the conflict, it was typically packed with people.
"Bethlehem is a city for tourists; absent visitors there is no livelihood," expresses a guide named Hamza. "We aspire to see individuals returning as in the past: from European nations, the Middle Eastern region, the Americas, Latin America and everywhere. We begin with the Christmas tree lighting, and we'll wait."
The Lingering Economic Impact
In the past two years, joblessness has soared within Bethlehem. Since the deadly Hamas-led attacks on southern Israel in October 2023 that sparked the war, many thousands of Palestinian labourers from the West Bank have been prevented from entering Israel and its settlements for work.
At the same time, government employees have received only partial salaries by the Palestinian Authority (PA) – that administers parts of the West Bank. The PA depends on tax revenues gathered by Israel, which it is currently holding – to the tune of 1.76 billion dollars, according to the UN's trade and development agency.
Israel says they are retaining these funds because the PA makes payments to incarcerated Palestinians that encourage attacks on Israelis. The PA – facing global pressure to make reforms – claims it has recently changed its welfare system.
A Modest Christmas Season
The grim economic situation implies that for many Christian Palestinians, despite the fact that there are now public events as well as religious services, it will constitute a subdued holiday season.
On the periphery of the square, a few customers wait to purchase sizzling balls of falafel from several shops.
"We're preparing for Christmas after one of our most challenging times as a Palestinian people and as Christians," says Alaa Salameh, who runs Afteem, a long-established family restaurant which has seen its income plummet. He notes lately many families could not even purchase falafel – a cheap, traditional food.
"Christians will try to mark the occasion but based on their circumstances," Mr Salameh anticipates. "An individual wishing to take his kids to a festival or a show or whatever, he doesn't have the money to expend on these celebrations."
Hopes for Calm and Recovery
In the cave-like grotto at the base of the church, a local woman accompanies a tour group from India, bending down by a silver star that indicates the spot where tradition states Jesus was born and igniting a light close by.
With tensions still high across the region, Bethlehem residents state they are praying for peace – and hoping for visitors to return to the place which is thought to be Christmas began.